With so much to see and not enough time to see it in, we got up at 6.00am to head out onto the backwaters before sunrise – so that we could be on a boat when the sun came up.  We started out on one of the numerous ‘buses’ that are used by locals to navigate the backwaters.  These can be hailed at any jetty and we used it to get from Alleppey to the house of our guide for the day where we had breakfast.  The two of us were sharing our tour with a young Irish couple – who were both doctors and were good conversation.  The curry-based breakfast was made by our guide’s wife and presented to us on banana leaves in their back garden beside a rice paddy – very pleasant and traditional.  From here we split into two long canoes which were navigated by two locals.  The plan for the day was much the same as we had done yesterday (meander around the backwaters without any clear location in mind), however today we had the added bonus of a silent, motor-less boat which further emphasised the laid back and relaxed atmosphere.

After what felt like a full day on the backwaters (that’s what happens when you start your sightseeing at 6am) we arrived back at our guide’s house for lunch, which was a broader version of breakfast, complete this time with a coconut each – a great experience.  Our guide (who had been arranged by the brilliant Motty) was unwilling to set a price for the day, leading ourselves and our Irish friends to confer about the most respectful amount to pay.  We decided upon 4000 rupees (about £40) between us, which I like to think was a fair amount.  From here we made our way back into town on a rickshaw – while boats are the preferred method of getting around the backwaters, some of the larger villages are connected by roads and bridges.  Once back at the hostel we showered and crashed on the beds, as the combination of the early start and the intense midday heat had knocked the stuffing out of us a bit.  Just as I was about to close my eyes, we got a knock on the door.  Sergei opened it (as I was sitting on my bed in my boxers watching Game of Thrones) and was surprised to find Abey (his old professor), who had not let on that he would be back in the area from his job in the USA.  Abey was holding a video camera to record Sergei’s reaction – and I slightly regret my undignified posture in the background of the video… After making myself look decent I joined Sergei, Abey and Motty’s wife as well as Abey’s wife and father in law for fresh lemonade and cake in the living room.  Abey was just passing through Alleppey to his house further south and had planned it all to make sure that we were in the house at the time – a well worked surprise.

Unfortunately Abey couldn’t stay around for longer and myself and Sergei headed off for our last Keralan adventure – a traditional local massage.  Having spoken to David and Kathryn (the Irish couple) earlier, who had had the same massage the day before, they refused to let on much about what the experience would be like.  Upon arrival at the pharmacy (the massage is deemed a medical process – though only with a sustained programme over several weeks), an English couple who were staying at Motty’s too, were just leaving and again, wouldn’t let on much about what we were about to experience.  Sergei went first as there was only one masseur available and I sat for about 45 minutes outside and contented myself that I couldn’t hear him screaming.  

Soon it was my turn and I (slightly apprehensively) entered the massage room which was empty, bar a large wooden table – not too dissimilar from a snooker table with no felt and with a bowed ridge down the middle.  I got changed into the most unflattering of loin cloths and then the masseur got to work – spending about half an hour covering me in warm coconut oil and then working it into my skin.  It was quite pleasant, but at the same time it felt totally absurd – every time he asked me to move, it turned out to be a real challenge, as I was on a slippery wooden surface and covered in oil.  After the massage I entered something like a sauna, where my body was put in a wooden box and my head was left sticking out of the top – like a box that magicians use to saw people in half, except with me sitting upright.  The steam was, amusingly, created by a pressure cooker (powered by a gas bottle), from which a tube entered into my box.  I sat in the box for about ten minutes, sweating profusely, until the masseur decided I looked roasted enough and let me have a shower.  All in all, a great experience – unlike anything I have ever experienced before.  My half hour looking like a big, greased up baby on the massage table was probably just about the most undignified I have ever looked…

That evening, after the massage, we headed back to Motty’s house where Motty’s wife was cooking all of his guests dinner – myself and Sergei and the Irish and English couples.  The food was great and we all had a few beers while getting to know each other before retiring for an early night due to another early start in the morning.  We would feel sad to be leaving the homestay – Motty was a great help for our time in Alleppey and I would thoroughly recommend anybody who is planning to visit Kerala to look him up.