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Day 28: Monday 17th August 2009

A 5:30am wake up time was set for us to get up, get sorted and get our bus tickets to San Jose ready for 7.  The journey proved to be quite an ordeal, with an inconvenient change of buses in the middle after which myself and Hugo were assigned seats ‘51 and 52’ on the fifty-seater bus.  We therefore spent a fair deal of the six hour journey lying uncomfortably on the floor.  We met Rob (who had been forced to rush back to the capital) in the hostel.  The day had been wholly dedicated to travel and after catching taxis back to the now very familiar Hostel Pangea, we spent the rest of the evening completing mundane jobs like cleaning the trangias in the showers and itemising all of the kit ready to haul it back to the UK - as we wouldn’t be doing any more major journeys internally.

Day 29: Tuesday 18th August 2009

For our last full day in Costa Rica we intended to go white water rafting on the Rio Pacuare.  We had booked this a fair bit earlier in the trip at the cost of $80 per head, which included transport and two meals.  We were picked up at the hostel at 6.20am (now thoroughly used to early mornings) and headed east along the same road that had taken us to the Caribbean a few weeks ago.  Upon arrival at the town of Florida, where the rafting company was based, we were treated to an all-you-can-eat breakfast (ideal before any kind of stomach-churning extreme sport).

After filling up on as much food as possible we were transported over to the river and given a brief safety demonstration.  Rapids are classed out of six and the river that we would be on was a class four - apparently you are meant to start with a class two, but there weren’t any nearby…  I had never done anything like it before but thoroughly enjoyed it and would definitely be up for doing it again.  At the last section of rapids our guides deliberately flipped the boats and let us tumble downstream to a quieter part, where they used the upturned boats as tables for our lunch, which they had carried with us in waterproof containers.  We had a few hours to mess around with the rafts before making our way back to the hostel.  Unfortunately (for obvious reasons) I didn’t have my camera with me for any stage of the rafting…hence the lack of photos.

Day 30: Wednesday 19th August 2009

With that, our time in Costa Rica was over.  Our last morning saw us pack up and make our way over to San Jose International Airport for our flight back to Newark and onto London Heathrow.  I like to think that we returned to England as different people - not many 17 year olds are exposed to such an eclectic array of challenges and experiences so far from home.  While World Challenge were always there as a safety net, we were never required to 'press the panic button’ - managing the entire trip ourselves.  As I write this, a whole five years after we flew back, I can definitely point to my time in Costa Rica as the start of something of a travelling career which has seen me spend nearly two of the last five years abroad across forty different countries.  In addition, the group of friends who travelled together has, on the whole, been the group that has endured through the challenges of spreading around the country through university.  The legacy of Costa Rica therefore continues to resonate half a decade later.

A last Costa Rican sunrise


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The Pacific beaches at Tamarindo

Day 24: Thursday 13th August 2009

The preceding 48 hours to today had given me about five hours of sleep, so we all had a much-deserved lie-in until 8 o'clock.  We basically had the morning off as Chris and Tom went to sort out his passport.  Myself and Daniel spent the morning looking at the group finances in order to work out how much money we had to play with for our upcoming rest and relaxation phase.  After doing this I did some shopping before meeting the group in a pizza restaurant and heading on to San Jose’s bus station.  We were heading back north, to the north-western Pacific coast and a town called Tamarindo on the Nicoya Peninsular.  The town is one of THE major beach destinations in Central America and was beginning to benefit from a great deal of western investment, earning it the nickname ‘Tamagringo’.  The bus was one of the nicest we had with leather seats and a CD player and having left at half 3 we arrived at around 9 in the evening.  We would be spending the next few days at the 'Black Sheep’ hostel and after arriving and checking in we had an early night.


Day 25: Friday 14th August 2009

As the name suggests, rest and relaxation days consist of nothing except going with the flow.  We got up before 8am (a habit that even the promise of a day of relaxation couldn’t help shift) and our only orders were to meet again in the evening at 6pm for dinner.  Our room (myself, Daniel, Stevie B, Hannah and Rob) went out for breakfast to make the most of the abundance of western restaurants - getting English muffins and orange juice which would have been an unthinkable luxury earlier in the trip.  We had a half hour to explore the souvenir shops and then headed towards the beach.  It was a stereotypical Pacific beach - sun, white sand, turquoise sea and palm trees.  The rest of the day makes pretty bad blogging - we essentially completed an extravagant cycle of swimming, drying off in the sun, reading and eating.  We had our lunch at a pizzeria (something which is becoming somewhat of a trend) where the menu contained amusing dishes such as the 'Happy Cow’ burger and the 'Third World Special’ pizza.



We arrived back at the hostel in good spirits but these were soon dampened when I found that 80,000 colones (about £80) had gone missing from the group fund in my money belt.  I also couldn’t find my camera with all of my photos on, so assumed that both had been stolen.  I was pretty glum at the evening meal and left early to do a thorough search of my bag.  Thankfully (and most importantly) I found the camera, but the  money had definitely gone. Bad start to the R&R phase…


Day 26: Saturday 15th August 2009

Day two of our three full days in Tamarindo was going to be based around roughly the same plan of doing our own thing all day and meeting up in the evening for dinner.  We decided to save a bit of money on breakfast by fetching in some bread and bacon, which Chris and Daniel made into bacon sandwiches.  We started off on the beach again, where I spent most of the day reading in the shade.  Stevie B provided most of the entertainment - as TP walked out of the sea, Steve pulled his shorts down.  To get him back, TP, Ben and Sam stole Steve’s trunks and ran up the beach with them - only to have their bluff called as he walked stark naked up the beach to get them back, much the horror of the rest of the beach.  





Day 27: Monday 16th August 2009

Our last day in Tamarindo began with breakfast at a really nice cafe on the front.  2900 colones (£2.90) bought us scrambled egg, toast, fruit salad and pineapple juice.  This good start to the day was followed up with a swim in the sea.  Quite a few of the other guys had got up early and gone surfing with Chris and we met up with them again at about midday.  None of us really fancied lunch, but myself Rob, Daniel and Steven went for a drink at a beach-side bar followed by pizza and then a bit of shopping where we bought Mrs Lee a present.  The afternoon was no different to the general trend of the earlier days - sitting around on the beach before returning to the hostel to play pool.  We had a meeting before going out to a big group meal to round off our R&R and belatedly celebrate Ed’s birthday.  The service was pretty slow so the restaurant distracted us by sending over three guys with a guitar to serenade our large table.  


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Downtown San Jose

Day 23: Wednesday 12th August 2009

As if the fact that the bus journey back to San Jose wasn’t bad enough for departing at 5am, it also took 8 hours.  Luckily we were so exhausted from our all-nighter that we managed to sleep and there were also a good set of photo opportunities along the journey.  In one of the breaks I got chatting with a local who had studied languages in Europe and was very interested in the nature of our trip - he was delighted to hear that Costa Rica was a real up and coming destination for trips from British secondary schools.

We returned to San Jose at about half past 3 and after doing a bit of bus/hostel booking had the rest of the afternoon to do a bit of shopping.  I was looking for some new clothes to replace the battered ones that I had brought with me, but unfortunately didn’t find much in the range of expensive and bland clothing shops.  The one shirt that I did buy turned out to have been made totally asymmetrically and was judged by Ben to make me look like “a Catholic who was about to be confirmed”.  Praise indeed.  One thing that San Jose did turn out to be good for was books and I was able to pick up a cheap copy of Hemmingway’s “For Whom the Bell Tolls”.  We made a vague attempt to find a present for Mrs Lee’s birthday but didn’t find anything suitable and decided to put this off until our next destination.  Our choices of destination for dinner were essentially a walk through San Jose in the dark, the suspected brothel next door, or the hostel.  Rob and Hannah nudged us towards the latter option and we obliged, though this meant that we ended up feeling pretty cooped up and spent all night mucking around in the dorm.
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The early morning back along the Pacific Ocean

Day 22: Tuesday 11th August 2009

Yet another 5.30am start as we had to have breakfast and get packed ready to leave at 7.  We left our camp as the sun was warming up the beach so the 3.5km walk to the ‘bus stop’ was very hot and sweaty.  This was not helped by my attempts to long jump on the river crossings being cut rather short.  Our transport from Carate to Puerto Jimenez was essentially a truck with a bench in the back.  This was fun, but slightly uncomfortable.  We reached Port Jim at about midday and after collecting all the bags which we hadn’t taken into the jungle, we had the day to ourselves.  We spent this free time to have lunch, go to the internet cafe and swim in the calm seas near out campsite.  

We found a pizzeria in town in the evening which actually turned out to provide one of the best, most filling meals of the trip to date.  On the way back from this meal I nearly broke my nose as I threw a bottle of coke in the air (for no real reason) and caught it with my face.  Before the meal we had gone with Adonis the campsite owner to see his 'trained’ caymans - a scary experience considering their size and the fact that there were about a hundred of them within a stone’s throw of our tents.  In order to appease the caymans, Adonis encouraged us to buy some offcuts of meat from a local butcher.  It became clear that we would have a really early start, so a group of 7 of us decided it wasn’t worth getting into our ant-infested tents and instead chose to do an all-nighter.  We started by having drinks at the bar and then moved on to have a kick around on the beach.  At midnight, some locals arrived on their bikes for a game and despite the fact that there were about 20 of them we managed to hold them to a 3-3 draw.  Our next piece of evening entertainment was a game of poker with peanuts for chips.  At 2.30am we started taking the tents down, the others got up at 3.30am and we all left at 20 past 4 to catch the 5am bus back to San Jose.



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A river crossing on the edge of Corcovado

Day 20: Sunday 9th August 2009

Yet another day of movement today.  It began at 6.30am with us all getting up after our awful night’s sleep and clearing up the campsite - a task that was made more entertaining by the big group of macaws which flew over and settled in the trees above us.  Our taxis left at 9 o'clock and cost an extortionate $50 each for the trip to the village of Carate on the south coast of the Osa Peninsular.  This was quite an interesting journey through the jungle, though we didn’t see much in the way of animals.  Our guide, Jose, travelled with us and when we reached the village he introduced himself and told us what he planned to show us over the following days in the jungles.

We began with a walk of 3.5km along the beach, with the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Corcovado National Park on the other - a stunning location.  Our campsite was at the La Leona lodge - the local rangers station, which was actually very nice and sat at the edge of the beach.  Lunch consisted of the now standard (but still unpleasant) jam/peanut butter wraps.  Some people went off for a brief tour in the jungle but myself, Tom W, Josh, Ed (whose birthday was today) and Ben stayed on the beach and tried to catch some fish.  This proved to be a total waste of time however as we were beaten by the waves and Josh managed to sustain the revolting injury of a fish hook through the finger nail.  We all met up again at about 5 o'clock for dinner as it staretd to rain.  Myself and Daniel cooked dinner (pasta & tomato) and it was frankly a bit of a cock up as we tried (and failed) to get everybody’s food ready at the same time.  We spent our evening sheltering from the rain while completing rather mundane tasks such as cleaning all of the cooking equipment.


Day 21: Monday 10th August 2009

It was actually a very good night’s sleep, considering we slept in a tent between the jungle and the Pacific Ocean.  We had a generic cereal breakfast quite early and left camp with Jose at about 8 o'clock for our much reduced rainforest trek (consisting of one day instead of the five that we had originally envisaged).  The plan was to walk six kilometres down the beach and then straight back again while trying to find as much wildlife as possible.  We had to do our first proper river crossing which was quite dramatic (though straightforward) and the most exciting bit of wildlife we found on the outbound walk was a golden orb spider.  Perhaps more impressively we also came across the remains of the engine of an American WW2 ship which had washed up on the beach as part of a wreck decades ago and never been removed.  It was big enough for us to be able to climb inside and walk around.





After eating our lunch at the furthest outbound point we made our way back to camp, seeing some spider monkeys and raccoons - interesting, but not quite the big finds that we had been hoping for.  We arrived back at camp in the mid afternoon and had some time to ourselves.  After Tom’s group had cooked us an early evening meal, we prepared to go on our night trek into the jungle.  This was our last chance to see wildlife, but was also our best chance as most creatures are nocturnal.  Thankfully it didn’t disappoint and we came across two snakes, a scorpion, three spiders and two toads, allowing us to return to camp at about 9 thoroughly satisfied.








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The Osa Peninsular begins

Day 19: Saturday 8th August 2009

Wake up time was half four as we aimed to leave at 20 past 5.  We said our thank yous and goodbyes to Donald and then took taxis to San Isidro de Generale, our nearest town.  From here, after a breakfast from a local bakery, we caught the bus to Puerto Jimenez on the Osa Peninsular in the south west.  The journey was 5 hours long and the bus was awful - we were sitting on the wheel arch.  The views however were superb - the best of the trip, with sun, sea and jungle aplenty.  We arrived in ‘Port Jim’ (as the locals call it) at around lunchtime and I was put in charge of finding the campsite I had booked.  Unfortunately I made a bit of an error and ended up going a rather long way around, but we got there eventually.  The site was run by a man called Adonis, who greeted us with an iguana in his hand.  He was our 'area agent’ and had therefore arranged guides and transport.

After pitching our tent and sorting ourselves out, we wandered into town for some lunch.  Here we found a wonderful 'soda’ (cafe) where we were able to have burgers and chips in abundance - very much worth it.  It then started raining, so after a brief trip to the supermarket to get Hannah a cooked sausage for lunch, we went into an internet cafe to do a bit of conversing with home.  We had a bit of a meeting at half 4 and then swam in the sea for a bit, hitting a football around.  The evening meal was at a local restaurant that served excellent battered squid with chips.  When we got back to the campsite, it became clear that some kind of party was going on, so we sat at the bar and talked to another World Challenge group from another school who had just turned up.  The music went on until 1, so we ended up sitting in our steaming hot tents awake for a while.


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Building the biogas converter

Day 16: Wednesday 5th August 2009

After my best night’s sleep of the trip so far, I was happy to get up for the breakfast that had been prepared for us by Donald’s wife.  It was made up of fruit, freshly squeezed orange juice and other bits and pieces.  Our first task of the day was a tour of the site from Donald.  This was meant to take a few hours, but actually continued until about 11 o'clock as we were interrupted three times by delivery trucks which he had to unload.  Lunch was cooked for us and was made up of another rice based meal.

In the afternoon we were given our first set of real jobs.  Most people were working on the biogas generator - creating the concrete foundations, but me, Ben and Sam found ourselves in the chicken coop, cleaning out the chickens and pheasants. This was not as bad as it sounds and we had a laugh while doing it - throwing bits of dried chicken droppings at each other.  This was followed by the funniest moment of the trip so far.  Ben and Sam put a sack over Stevie B’s head, causing him to run around randomly until he ended up in the swimming pool.  Luckily I recorded it on my camera.  The evening meal was good and filling and after this we had a fairly big meeting where we discussed the idea of changing the rainforest trek to accommodate the injuries that had been sustained and also to cut it a bit shorter to collect TP’s passport from San Jose (he had lost this and his money on the bus).  The curfew was at 9.00pm.






Day 17: Thursday 6th August 2009

Another 6.30am start for breakfast which was on the same lines as the previous morning.  Donald congratulated us on the work from the previous day and explained that today the biogas people would continue with their jobs and the rest of us would spend the morning planting grass seed.  This was a tiring and fundamentally quite boring job, but we did find out a bit more about Donald.  He worked for the agricultural board and had been to Iowa University for 7 months to study farming.  He liked to think that he was running a completely eco-friendly farm, but this wasn’t quite true.  At least he was trying though, and was educating farmers nearby about organic produce in the process.  Lunch was much the same as yesterday.

In the afternoon everyone except me carried on with their previous jobs (also except Rob, Hannah and Daniel who weren’t working).  I had been asked to sort out the rainforest trekking phase.  We were cutting it down to two nights in the jungle with two nights either wide in Puerto Jiminez.  We were also changing the trek.  Instead of walking across the Osa Peninsular, we decided to set up a base camp at the La Leona rangers station and conduct a series of day hikes around the camp.  I spent several hours booking and planning but eventually got it done.  Dinner was similar again, but still nice and filling.  This was again followed by a long meeting, conducted by Ben, which was actually very constructive.  Mid-meeting, Rob was attacked by a massive beetle, which broke things up a bit.  We talked until about 9 and then went to bed.

Day 18: Friday 7th August 2009

I volunteered to help prepare the breakfast this morning with Sam and Donald’s wife.  This was quite pleasant but meant that I had to get up at half 5.  The helping was based around setting the table and squeezing a crate of oranges for juice.  Our morning tasks were to finish off the biogas converter and transport cut hay from one field into a barn for the horses to eat.  This took longer than it should have done as we were using a wheelbarrow with one handle.  We finished our tasks early so were assigned to digging out some carpet (?) and filling in the hole again.

At lunch we actually had some beef which was nice.  Donald gave us the afternoon off as it was our last day, allowing us to explore the surrounding area.  Me and a few other guys went to the local ‘cascada’ (waterfall), which was nice despite being full of leeches.  It was very difficult to get to however - we had to run through some gardens, down some terraces and away from a dog which bit Chris.  We bought a football on the way back and had a three-a-side kick about (won 3-1 by team Coles/Cave/Croft).  I had a wonderful shower and then got ready for our final dinner at the agricultural farm, at which some chocolate milk appeared from somewhere.  We had to spend the rest of the night packing, but this was made more exciting when Hugo found two scorpions in his bed, causing a bout of mass paranoia.




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Hiking in the clouds on the ascent of Cerro Ena

Day 12: Saturday 1st August 2009

We had to get up for 4 o'clock in order to catch the 5.30 bus from San Jose to San Isidro de General.  This journey was 3 hours long and was uncomfortable as the stupid woman in front of me had put her seat all the way against my legs.  Once in San Isidro we tried to do some administration - buying tickets and also trying to book a hostel to keep our bags in.  This latter task was fruitless unfortunately and at the time it looked like we would be carrying all our bags around the mountain.  We had a bit of time to look around the town - doing things like buying snacks and fishing equipment and then sitting around the bus terminal waiting for the bus.  We were clearly the centre of the town’s attention and as a result had a lot of local people coming up and staring at us.  The bus eventually arrived and it was clear that there was not enough room.  As a result we had to stand with our heavy rucksacks.  Ben was standing in the position where he got probed by the door every time anybody needed to get on.  


After a hot and cramped 90 minute journey we arived at the town of San Jeronimo.  This was a typical unspoiled location and we were met by the local guide Randall, who is trying to kick start a tourist industry in the area.  He took our bags in his jeep and we walked up to his house where we were able to sort out and thankfully drop off some kit.  From there we walked up to another local person’s house which was half an hour up the mountainside.  The owner had a trout pond and we were able to eat a local dish of battered trout (which we caught ourselves) with beans etc.  He also allowed us to sleep in the upstairs of his house on the floor which was a bit tight but fundamentally free.  We had an early night.




Day 13: Sunday 2nd August 2009

Had to get up at about 4.30am in order to get to the start of the hike at 5.  There were two possible places that we could stop for the night - one half way up the mountain at around 2000 metres (1200 was the base level) or the other which was 200 metres below the summit at 3000 metres.  Randall our guide told us that the last World Challenge group had reached the mid point at 12 o'clock.  We made it at 9 o'clock in what he described as a ‘record time’.  At this point we felt it was too early to even contemplate having lunch, so carried on up the mountainside - we were able to fill our drink bottles in streams and brooks along the way (with a lot of iodine solution in).  The walk was very impressive view-wise - it was not long before we were above the cloud line, and we had spectacular views of the surrounding valleys and mountains.  It was also impressive to know that we were the only people on the mountain.

We had lunch at a point about 70% up the mountain.  The obscure meal plans organized by the food group meant that we had peanut and peanut butter wraps - one of the worst meals ever frankly.  The walk got tougher as we continued as the air thinned and the path got steeper and wetter.  At about 4pm we arrived at the camp beneath the summit, consisting of a little shack with a sink in.  We lay our sleeping bags out on the floor at 4.30pm and none of us, except the cooks (who made pasta with sauce) got out until the next morning.  I slept really badly as it was cold, draughty and uncomfortable.  On top of this a lot of us, including me, had come down with altitude-induced flu.  Not nice.






Day 14: Monday 3rd August 2009

The original plan had been to get up and go the extra 200m (vertically) to the summit to watch the sun rise over the Caribbean.  Unfortunately it was cloudy so we stayed in bed until about 8am.  Breakfast consisted of powdered milk and cereal.  After this, most of us (bar Needers, Rob and Daniel) went to the summit anyway.  This section of the walk was very different to the rainforest based previous section, with murky swamps taking over.  It took about half an hour to get to the top and once there we took some photos of the team and carved 'WC09 HBS’ into the pole at the summit.  The views were not great, but sporadically better than we had expected.

We descended back to the summit camp for a lunch that had been prepared for us by those who didn’t make it to the top.  Lunch consisted of tuna wraps and peanut butter (argh) sandwiches.  The camp was broken at about 12am and we began the major descent from 3000m to around 2000m where the halfway camp was.  This walk took longer than we expected as it had been raining and there were plenty of fresh holes and puddles.  We eventually got down at 5ish and set up our tents for the first time under some tarpaulins.  There was a shelter where we were able to cook and we had a pretty good meal of rice and the dreaded bean feast.  The evening entertainment was decidedly minimalist as the guides had decided we needed our earliest start of the whole trip in the morning - a painful 3.30am, so after washing up in a nearby stream we went to bed in our tents.  Ours was pitched on a slope with me at the top, so I spent the whole night trying not to roll onto Daniel.



Day 15: Tuesday 4th August 2009

Waking up at 3.30am, at 2000 metres above sea level, in a tent, is as painful as it comes.  This was proven by Sam going mental at his tent mates with the immortal phrase “fuck this shit”, much to everybody’s amusement. My tent managed to get ready in 40 minutes, but we didn’t leave until 5am as not everybody is as pro as us.  The walk actually began in the dark which was interesting with two fully laden horses walking behind us.  I personally found this section of the walk, from the mid point to the base camp, to be the worst part.  Not only was it the general wet/cloudy/sticky situation we had come to love, but my altitude flu was causing my nose to positively spray snot over my face and upper torso.  This was a better fate that other people however, who were spraying another bodily fluid over large sections of undergrowth at regular intervals.  Not nice.

We had our breakfast on a tree on the way down and reached the bottom at 10am.  We got a lift back to Randall’s house where we re-arranged our kit and bought some of his homegrown coffee.  Our bus to the next stage of our journey (the agricultural project) was at 1pm so we had some food in town before leaving.  The journey was fairly brief and we were collected from the bus stop by Donald, the farm owner.  I was the fifth man in a four man car so was rammed in the boot of his jeep with my face against the glass for the 3km journey, amusingly.  Once at the farm (a lovely wooden building) we had a talk with Donald before going to our rooms to sort ourselves out.  Dinner was cooked for us and was the best meal so far.  Afterwards we had a powerpoint presentation about the farm before an early night.





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      • Day 28-30: Finale
      • Day 24-27: Tamarindo
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